Wednesday, October 13, 2010


Our experience with kabuki in Ginza was sort of foggy and dream-like. It was our first morning in Japan, and we had just stumbled out of Tsukiji fish market, bellies full of sushi, heads swimming with jet lag. It was foggy and we sat for a bit under the kabuki theater awning with a paper bag of freshly roasted chestnuts and some hot green tea, speaking in (very) broken Japanese and bowing back and forth with others waiting for the show. We opted not to spring for the English translation headphones, but I wish we had; the show was beautiful, but hard to follow. A few times I broke away to watch the audience nodding and drooping and then jerking back awake, then back to see the set rotate to show the inside of an ancient machiya and listen to the sound of the shamisen.

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